Antarctica: Candied Dreams and The Whales of Cierva Cove (part 4)

Wisps of flossy clouds are collecting in the brilliant azure of another Antarctic summer day. We’ve had carnival weather of glorious sunshine in this dreamscaped corner of the planet; seen penguin parties and countless seals; guessed at species of passing whales; trekked up snow cone hills to stunning vistas of mountains and sea; and ridden boats between icebergs of lozenge blue and dazzling white.

S-U-P!

I’m standing on a large paddleboard on the Southern Ocean a few feet from the edge of the sugar crisp, powder crumbly shores of the Antarctic Peninsula. An inflatable Zodiac boat offloads the rest of the group of 7 onto a dark sea of blueberry ink. Penguins porpoise in and out close by, feeding on tiny krill. There’s no wind here and the water is as still as a lake. We’ve never paddle-boarded before, but the instructor assures us it’s easy. There are fields of chunky brash ice in the water - melted ice cubes at the end of a fast diluting drink.

The Ocean Endeavour is at anchor on the far side of the bay. As soon as we got here, people spotted whales in the water – dozens of them spread out in the confines of sheltered Cierva Cove. Humming Zodiacs zip away from the ship to get a closer look while trying to maintain a respectable distance from the wildlife. I’m jealous. I’d like to see a whale close-up but I’d signed up for this paddleboarding gig.

The Ocean Endeavour

My paddleboard wobbles like jelly. Or is it just me? I spot a fountain of spray in the distance. Whale! We’re supposed to stay in a group, so I point and (obviously!) start paddling away from everyone. The group follows, someone falls in the water, the group stops. Suddenly there are more spurts and blows from different directions. I’m a candy-crazed kid in Willy Wonka’s factory with no idea which way to go. Why can’t these Oompa Loompas keep up?

Suddenly, a fin sprouts from the sea about 60 feet away. I can see the knotty licorice head of a Humpback Whale glistening just at the surface. Another blow of air and water shoots up with an elephantine whoosh. Everyone’s well behind; I paddle a little closer; the current does the rest. Soon I’m about 20 feet away. I can see two whales logging in the water. They’re resting, breathing, huge, unconcerned. I’d happily fall in at this point, just to get closer. But, there’s a responsible rule about encountering wildlife – don’t interfere. Moments go by. I couldn’t tell you what I’m thinking. I’m not sure I’m thinking at all. I’ve now got an emotion connected to the word “marvelous”. This is what it is.

A Fast Melting Drink

At the end of 45 minutes on the water, we return to the boat. We’re all thrilled, even the lady who fell in twice. Imagine a time when every sea held thousands of these amazing creatures. They’re all endangered now. In a few more years… who knows…

Our fearless captain revs the engine of the small Zodiac boat and it starts off with a purr. She laughs at my face as I look over the side. There’s another Humpback in the water 10 feet away, it must be 30 feet long, each of it’s pectoral fins is the size of my outstretched arms.

It dives slowly, taking my wonder with it to preserve in the cold.